#Terressens | Samurai & Katanas | Restoring the oxidized blade of a sword or katana (How-to)

Restoring the oxidized blade of a sword or katana | Practical info #Terressens

Samurai & Katanas

Restoring the oxidized blade of a sword or katana

Practical info #Terressens

Steel is an alloy of iron and carbon. Carbon content generally ranges from 0.005% to 1.5% (by mass), and can reach 2%. The higher the carbon content, the harder the steel. Steel can be unalloyed (iron and carbon only) or alloyed (with other chemical elements such as silicon, molybdenum or chromium). Steel has a low resistance to corrosion. In the case of a traditional knife, sword or katana blade, the steel is generally unalloyed, which exposes it to oxidation by air, humidity or contact with corrosive substances (such as vegetable juices). Maintaining the blade, especially when cutting, helps prevent this oxidation. If maintenance is carried out poorly, too little or too late, it must be replaced by a restoration operation to remove surface oxidation.

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Steel is therefore made of iron and carbon. Nowadays, metallurgical knowledge allows us to add adjuvants (that's a metallurgical term, not a dirty word) such as chromium or molybdenum to make it, for example, stainless, harder, stronger... Like a recipe, there are an infinite number of variations (called nuances) based on the same basic ingredients. And even more so with recent additives such as vanadium, nickel... Some blades - more decorative in nature - come in black, red, blue... This is a surface treatment.

Whatever it is, the blade of a sword or a katana will always undergo an oxidation reaction when exposed to air or moisture. Even modern stainless steels merely slow down the disintegration of molecules in the presence of oxygen. Molybdenum and chromium don't really make steel perfectly "stainless" either. They merely supercede this inevitable phenomenon. With water, the iron in steel forms iron oxide, or rust. Without protection and appropriate maintenance, corrosion will progress to the surface, and even deep into the metal.

If a fencer is sincere about his or her knowledge of metallurgy and the mastery of blades, he or she also needs to know about certain aspects of maintenance in order to prolong their qualities and use. What can you expect from a weapon whose lack of maintenance renders it unusable?

Traditional steel oxidizes in the presence of air, acid or water. Oxygen in gaseous (air) or liquid (water) form produces rust on steel. Despite its vital importance to life on earth, we have to admit that it attacks - oxidizes - many materials, including metals. As a vital force, oxygen is also a destructive agent.

A katana or a sword are therefore susceptible to oxidation. With the exception of decorative models, where the steel used is usually stainless steel (such as 440), blades need to be maintained.

Read the article: "How to care for a katana blade?" (practical tip #Terressens)

Regular maintenance, especially if the blade is used for cutting, helps prevent oxidation. The chalk powder used to maintain a katana blade (uchiko) stops surface attack. The oil layer then forms an airtight film, protecting the steel from oxidation.

Targets for cutting training


Sheet of paper: the gesture is mastered when the sheet is cut, not torn.
Bamboo: beware of plant juices (immediate maintenance)
Woven rice-straw mat: the most traditional, soaked for 4 days in water at 4°, then dried for 4 days before use; bamboo can be inserted inside to provide bone-like strength.
❌ Wood: unsuitable (sap hardness and acidity)
❌ Water bottle, fruit and vegetables: spectacular, but not very interesting
Steel can sometimes oxidize. This is the case when maintenance is not carried out, or is carried out poorly or late. Cutting bamboo, for example, will always leave traces of the plant's juices. Leaving it on the blade for any length of time will damage it. Storage in damp conditions or in direct sunlight also reduces the protective effect of the oil and brings the steel into contact with air or water (humidity).

Surface oxidation can be avoided or even eliminated. When rust penetrates the metal (due to lack of maintenance after a cutting session, for example), the steel may no longer be salvageable. Here are a few examples of oxidation at different stages.
① Surface of a katana blade shortly after a cutting session.
② Over time, without maintenance, the steel surface oxidizes
③ In a damp saya (scabbard), certain areas can reveal geometric figures of oxidation. Without immediate treatment, it will progress across the surface of the blade, even hollowing out the steel.
④ Lack of maintenance allows oxidation to penetrate the metal, literally digging holes.

To restore steel to its original shiny surface, the best solution is to use polishing paste. The operation is simple, but requires both care and patience. Here's an example of how to recover a sword blade. Made from a steel equivalent to XC45 (1045), the blade has been exposed to the air for over 20 years. This is a private collection for which the oxidation effect is sought. Simply apply the equivalent of one or two dabs of polishing paste to the blade and rub for a long time with a clean cloth, until the paste disappears. It will take 30 minutes to polish 3 cm of blade. You should therefore be prepared to carry out this operation for around thirty hours.

Polishing paste


This 100 ml tube of polishing paste is ideal for restoring shine to all metals: chrome, gold, steel, silver... It's perfect for removing micro-scratches or the beginnings of oxidation from the blades of knives, swords and sabers.

► Buy polishing paste tube
① Sword blade left out in the open has oxidized.
② Apply polishing paste to the metal.
③ Semi-finishing: the surface gradually regains its shiny appearance.
④ After 30 minutes of manual polishing, 3 cm of the blade has regained its original surface condition.

It's better to prefer manual polishing to mechanical solutions (polishing machine, Dremel...). You'll avoid hollowing out certain areas by accentuating the polishing. Note that this process not only removes the oxidized surface, but will also make sharpening areas (false hardening line) or the true hamon (in the case of differential hardening) disappear. It is therefore preferable tomaintain your blade regularly, rather than having to overhaul it. If you leave your blade too long without maintenance, recovery will become increasingly difficult, if not impossible. Oxidation will permanently damage the blade wire, attack sensitive areas such as the blade tip, and make restoration out of reach.

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